Stop and Smell the French Perfume: Fragonard in Eze Village

Me and Martine sorting through hundreds of choices!

Me and Martine sorting through hundreds of choices!

When in France, you must take time to stop and smell the French perfume! I am so glad I did at Fragonard in Eze Village. The history of perfume dates back to the Mesopotamian times. As the world travelers brought the craft of creating odorous concoctions west, the Italians brought the chemical formulas to France where chemists hired by the aristocrats spent lifetimes perfecting. Yes, the French had questionable, strange hygienic practices leaving them with strong body odor that perfume was used to attempt to cover up, but now the usage is simply superfluous. Kings Louis’ XV and XVI were huge consumers of perfume, as was Napoleon. Gloves were a popular way to distribute the scents to people’s hands, which lasted for days, but was reportedly discontinued when evildoers began mixing poisons into the perfume to slowly poison their enemies. It was a genius way to get rid of a dreaded rival without having to “lay a glove on them.”

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The laboratory, clean and ready to make more!

Southern France became the fragrance capital of the world. An entire industry was born from the heavy usage of perfume by the noble which then spread to the general population. Flowers were and are still today grown specifically for their fragrance in the Grasse village (northwest of Cannes/Nice) in the hillsides. Jean-Honoré Fragonard, a famous artist from the area is the name chosen for a large perfume factory based out of Grasse.

IMG_2632Fragonard has a few factories in France and Elizabeth and I took the opportunity to stop at one in Eze Village – halfway between Nice and Monaco. We were treated to a private tour as the factory was closed for a local holiday. We loved our first hand view of the inner workings of the process and could see how neat that their soaps and fragrances are hand-made, carefully packaged by hand and stored at the correct temperatures to ensure perfection upon arrival in the specialty stores selling their products. They produce cosmetics, perfumes, eaux de perfumes, eaux de toilette, hand soaps and face soaps to please every man and woman!

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Elizabeth in hunt of her own personal favorite!

At the end of the tour, we went into the gift shop where our guide Martine let us sample the fragrances to our heart’s content until we found our personal favorites. To narrow down the over 300 options, she asked us questions about our likes and dislikes to help focus our palettes. Yes, I said palette because you take in perfume with your nose and mouth and pick choices that appeal to both. You would not choose a smell with heavy citrus if you dislike eating citrus and chances are if you love citrus you will like those smells as well. Fear of commitment? Yes, I did not want to spend a bunch of money on a lark so I purchased a petite size that would travel easily and a yummy night cream (they call jelly) that used nightly, will guarantee that I look ten years younger. Not really, but this Gal Pal can hope!

Stopping at Fragonard was not a planned activity, but it was an unsual one and I think both Elizabeth and I were happy to have stumbled upon this little gem in the base of the beautiful Eze Village.

L’Usine Laboratoire
Eze-Village / FRANCE / 06360
Tél: +33 (0) 4 93 41 05 05 / Fax: +33 (0) 4 93 41 02 95

Relaxing at the Willow Stream Spa in Monte Carlo

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Check-in desk at the Willow Stream Spa.

Fatigued is how I always arrive in France, but I NEVER succumb to it. I usually have an ambitious experience-driven agenda and insist on photographing the heck out of each and every little step of the day. My mind races throughout the day second guessing if my camera captured any great shots and if I remembered to document the address of the obscure shop we just stumbled upon, interspersed with thoughts of “What time is it at home? What are the boys doing right now? I wonder if Mr. Weekend In Paris remembered to pick up his dry cleaning?” At night I dream in French and usually speak fluently, only to wake up just after the recurring nightmare dream that I am back in freshman French and failing a final exam. Needless to say, my mind and body benefit greatly when I stop to take care of them once in a while and I was very pleased to do so in Monaco at the Fairmont’s Willow Stream Spa this past January.

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Serene ladies lounge area where you wait for your therapist to take you in for your treatments.

One of the best things about being a travel writer is being offered some pretty nice perks, like a complimentary spa treatment at the Fairmont. One of the negatives of being a travel writer is when you are disappointed with a service or accommodation. It can make things awkward. Lucky for me my experience at Willow Stream was AMAZING! I was checked-in at the front desk by fresh-faced and smiling Morena for my “Stress Relief” massage appointment who offered me a 90 minute treatment. But as Murphy’s Law was in effect, I could not fit in a whole 90 minutes and instead had to settle for a 60 minute treatment. What am I nuts? Clearly, because once my capable massage therapist Melanie began diligently working to relieve my stress I wished I had cancelled everything on my agenda to spend the day under her thumbs, working out every knot built up in my shoulders and back from years of poor posture, sleeping curled up on airplanes and stress from having given birth to two busy, charming but independent boys.

Private spa room photo courtesy of Fairmont Monte Carlo.

Private spa room photo courtesy of Fairmont Monte Carlo.

The spa itself was an oasis of tranquility bathed in natural light and decorated with soothing colors from the Mediterranean Sea. Each person I encountered within the spa had a calm and centered manner about them, which set the tone for the overall relaxing experience. What I think is a really cool concept, the Willow Stream Spa has private individual treatment rooms where you can apply various scrubs, take an aromatherapy steam shower and soak in a hot tub overlooking the spectacular water. You have the opportunity to go at your own pace and try the various mud scrubs without a therapist in sight. I think this unique concept works for many men and women who like their privacy. Of course, they also have rooms for a more social spa day where a group of women can get together to laugh and compare treatments over a healthy lunch served in a relaxed, but fun setting. Boy would that be a blast to have the whole group of gal pals in there at once chilling out. It would be a dream come true!

My takeaway from the visit to the spa is that I need to build time into my hectic schedule to re-energize, rejuvenate and allow my mind to slow down. After my Stress Relief Massage I was more focused and at ease the rest of the trip. I don’t think it was a coincidence, I truly felt it made a difference. So when in Monte Carlo, do as the high-rollers do and get yourself to the Willow Stream Spa to relax in-between sightseeing excursions. You won’t regret it!

12 Avenue des Spélugues, Monte Carlo, Monaco, 98000
Phone: (+377) 93-506600   Fax: (+377) 93-300157
email: fmc.willowstream@fairmont.com

Unless otherwise noted, photos are the property of Weekend In Paris. Must obtain permission before use.

The Weekend In Paris received the Stress Relief Spa Treatment complimentary, but the opinions about it are my own and never compromised.

Sometimes Travel Can Drive Me to Drink!

The before shot at the bus stop waiting to head to the Nice airport.

The before shot at the bus stop waiting to head to the Nice airport.

My luxury trip of a lifetime came to an abrupt stop outside Monaco this past January. Gal Pal Elizabeth and I were spoiled beyond belief hobnobbing with the rich and famous in Monaco and staying at the fabulous Fairmont Monte Carlo, but it was time to head to Paris and Milan to hook up with our other gal pals waiting to set Europe on fire. We had spent more than we budgeted for on taxi cabs, and feeling guilty about it, decided to be low-key and take the bus to the airport in Nice from Monaco. The bus stop was directly across the street from the Fairmont and would drop us off right at the terminal for Air France, what could be easier? Wrong!

We were the only ones on the bus for the trip – should have been our first indication that things might go awry. Did the locals know something we didn’t? Our bus driver was annoyed from the get-go that the circus was in town as well as a football match (soccer to you and me) which created an undue amount of traffic standing in our way to a smooth ride to the airport. He was cursing under his breath and shouting at times to the seemingly oblivious pedestrians crossing streets and other drivers trying to make their way around the rotary’s. Monaco is full of twists and turns and there is only one road in and out of the city towards Nice. We were commiserating with him and were genuinely happy for him when we broke free of the gridlock and headed onto the freeway. That’s when things went horribly out of control.

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Who says taking the bus is cheaper than a taxi? Not when your bag gets road rash!

Speeding along at a good clip, he suddenly slammed on the brakes and pulled off to the side of the freeway. He then opened the door and got off the bus. A car had pulled up right in front of the bus and Elizabeth and I were perplexed. He came right back on the bus and began yelling, “How many bags did you have?!” I answered, “Four.” He then said, “Get off the bus!” As I stepped off the bus, with Elizabeth in tow, I heard the driver of the car, who at this point had exited his car and was coming over to the bus, excitedly scream to us, “Le baggage, le baggage” while pointing his fingers down the road. In an instant I processed what had happened…I looked left at the man from the car, and then looked right to see that the doors to the luggage compartment on the bus were open revealing three bags, not four and then my eyes spied a small object in the middle of the highway way far away and knew it was one of my pieces of luggage!

Quick Priscilla, think…was my laptop still in that bag or had I really taken it out at the last second thinking I should carry it on the bus? Yes! I knew my laptop was safe, but still the rest of my important items were lying in the middle of the highway with cars dodging around it. “How long would that last?” I wondered and with my adrenaline pumping began to sprint down the highway to retrieve my bag. The driver caught up to me and waved me back to the bus as he began an all out dash weaving in and out of lanes trying to get my bag. The journalist in me made me run back to the bus to retrieve my camera to document this horror and perhaps to have proof in case the bus company needed it.

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Already beaten up by the airlines, my brand new bag was clearly torn up by this up close and personal view of the highway!

Bag in hand, we boarded the bus and began to inspect the bag for damage. What the airlines had started, the trip down the highway finished. My brand new carry-on bag was finished. I photographed the damage and began a dialogue with the driver in my best high school French. I remained clear-headed and began to access my options. The driver said I could make a claim with the bus company. Yeah, I knew exactly how that would go. I would be without a bag and no compensation or at best, it would take months to get through the red tape and cost me gobs of time and money in telephone bills and still I would have to purchase a bag in Europe losing money on the conversion rate. Then it struck me, the driver had more to lose than I did by making a claim. I was sure his boss would not appreciate that he had failed to secure the luggage doors causing this problem and I was fairly sure that when they heard about his behavior driving, it would finish his career. So, I suggested a compromise. I pulled out my iPhone, looked up the exact bag on the website and showed him the price. He agreed to pay me for a new bag himself and I agreed to not report him to the bus company. He seemed genuinely sorry and I had no interest in seeing him lose his career, but I did need to purchase a suitcase because this bag would not hold my items securely.

When travel can drive me to drink this is what happens!

When travel can drive me to drink this is what happens!

We left the curb, money in hand to check-in for our flight feeling badly for both the driver and me. The Air France check-in worker was not willing to take the bag, as is, at check it and asked what happened. With my broken French and a lively reenactment of the scene, he howled laughing and steered me towards a shrink wrapping station for my bag. Once we accomplished that and had my bag safely on its way to Paris, we did the only thing two self-respecting women who were emotionally drained could do…we opened up that nice bottle of wine from our welcome gift at the Fairmont outside in the sunshine at the curb at the Nice airport and drank it right from the bottle!

All in a glamorous day’s work for Weekend In Paris!

All photos property of Weekend In Paris. Must obtain permission before use.